The Jewel of Indonesia...
Travellers rave about Bali like no other destination and you have to wonder how much of it is true. I went to find out for myself and discovered that Bali could actually be the perfect holiday destination. Believe the hype!
Scooters buzz along the hot smoky roads, swarming like locusts into every ounce of space, all the while singing a cacophony of horn toots to each other. And yet here I am, languidly poured across the back seat of our house van, enjoying the ocean breeze on my face, watching gigantic kites roam the wide, clear skies. Relaxation is a state of mind on this laidback Indonesian island.
The southern region of Bali is where all the action happens. Planes land in Denpasar, an hour drive in low traffic from the touristic center, Kuta. Most self-respecting travel advisors will warn you to avoid Kuta if you are looking for a chill getaway. It’s packed, hot, loud, and all the shops sell the same cheap wares. Yet even here, amidst the organized madness, it seems you can always find a sense of calm. The horn toots are gentle reminders of where your neighbours are on the road; the street hawkers pressing you to buy their wares will immediately stand down if you ask them politely; the spice traders’ attempt to sling you fake saffron at an exorbitant price will make you BOTH laugh when you call her out on her game.
Finding the right accommodation in Bali is effortless. Choose from an architects’ realised dream in the jungle, a bamboo hut by the beach or a tree-house. Travelling with a senior, we settled on more traditional options - a sprawling villa with private pool and luxurious amenities for our first week, and then a funky little new hotel on Legian Beach. Both were wonderfully relaxing retreats that were, at times, almost too tranquil to leave.
Each country has a personality and if I were to describe the personality of Bali, I would say she were a savvy yet gracious host - very much aware of what she has to offer and wily enough to make a buck from it, but steeped in enough integrity to never lose sight of herself for it.
And she has plenty to offer.
Beaches. Yes. The island is ringed with great yawning expanses of fine white sands, leaning into the Indian Ocean. Around the southern tip of the island at Jimbaran Beach is where people congregate on the beaches in the evening to watch the sunset. Go high-end and see out the day at Potatohead Beachclub, or take in the moment at a smaller beach bar, or warung, traditional eatery. The beaches come to life at night with music and drumming circles, beach hawkers and mischief-makers and the fresh air and blooming sky are like no other you will experience.
Venture northward from the populated Southern beaches into the jungle-soaked landmass to Ubud, the soul of Bali, where you’ll pick up on maximum spiritual vibes. The first thing that Balinese families spend their expendable income on is their family temple so Ubud is a village where almost every home has it’s own temple. Many of the yoga retreats and art galleries of the island are also in Ubud, so you can drown yourself in meditative practice, wile away a day pondering the world renowned artistic local talent, or take lunch in an organic food café set in a rice paddy. It is a super relaxed co-ordinate and you needn’t have a schedule.
If you're an animal fan, visit the Monkey Jungle, where the cheeky creatures get as much enjoyment out of mimicking and taunting you, as you do out of the awesome power of the animal kingdom. There are elephant parks where you can ride majestic beasts, but is it ethical? You decide.
For those travelling with the less adventurous, even a lazy drive through the jungle is a beautiful way to spend the day. Visit temples, the infamous civet coffee plantations, rice paddy fields, catch a traditional Barong dance show, or find the right vantage point to view one of the incredible volcano vistas.
Travel around September and the skies are peppered with fantastically shaped kites, from small to very, very large, for the annual kite festival. A tradition that grew from bored farmers trying to think of ways to pass the day and protect their crops from hungry birds has grown into an annual explosion in the skies. We passed many a quiet moment in the car counting kites hanging in the sky.
No matter how you plan your itinerary you are bound to encounter a beautiful Balinese tradition of canang, a daily Hindu offering of thanks and gratitude. Handmade banana leaf baskets filled with flowers and incense adorn the footpaths, entrance-ways and front window-sills of every place. It is a sight to behold and it encompasses the very feel of Bali – stunning yet humble, blessed and grateful for it.
WEATHER
Dry: April – Sep
Rainy: Oct - Mar
FLIGHTS: 3,000QR (Expedia)
FOOD: pick up local fare for cheap at a local warung or visit one of the five star restaurants along Legian Beach
TIP: the diving and water sports in Bali is exceptional, but also, check out Lombok and Gili Islands on either side for deserted crystal, clear beaches
Scooters buzz along the hot smoky roads, swarming like locusts into every ounce of space, all the while singing a cacophony of horn toots to each other. And yet here I am, languidly poured across the back seat of our house van, enjoying the ocean breeze on my face, watching gigantic kites roam the wide, clear skies. Relaxation is a state of mind on this laidback Indonesian island.
The southern region of Bali is where all the action happens. Planes land in Denpasar, an hour drive in low traffic from the touristic center, Kuta. Most self-respecting travel advisors will warn you to avoid Kuta if you are looking for a chill getaway. It’s packed, hot, loud, and all the shops sell the same cheap wares. Yet even here, amidst the organized madness, it seems you can always find a sense of calm. The horn toots are gentle reminders of where your neighbours are on the road; the street hawkers pressing you to buy their wares will immediately stand down if you ask them politely; the spice traders’ attempt to sling you fake saffron at an exorbitant price will make you BOTH laugh when you call her out on her game.
Finding the right accommodation in Bali is effortless. Choose from an architects’ realised dream in the jungle, a bamboo hut by the beach or a tree-house. Travelling with a senior, we settled on more traditional options - a sprawling villa with private pool and luxurious amenities for our first week, and then a funky little new hotel on Legian Beach. Both were wonderfully relaxing retreats that were, at times, almost too tranquil to leave.
Each country has a personality and if I were to describe the personality of Bali, I would say she were a savvy yet gracious host - very much aware of what she has to offer and wily enough to make a buck from it, but steeped in enough integrity to never lose sight of herself for it.
And she has plenty to offer.
Beaches. Yes. The island is ringed with great yawning expanses of fine white sands, leaning into the Indian Ocean. Around the southern tip of the island at Jimbaran Beach is where people congregate on the beaches in the evening to watch the sunset. Go high-end and see out the day at Potatohead Beachclub, or take in the moment at a smaller beach bar, or warung, traditional eatery. The beaches come to life at night with music and drumming circles, beach hawkers and mischief-makers and the fresh air and blooming sky are like no other you will experience.
Venture northward from the populated Southern beaches into the jungle-soaked landmass to Ubud, the soul of Bali, where you’ll pick up on maximum spiritual vibes. The first thing that Balinese families spend their expendable income on is their family temple so Ubud is a village where almost every home has it’s own temple. Many of the yoga retreats and art galleries of the island are also in Ubud, so you can drown yourself in meditative practice, wile away a day pondering the world renowned artistic local talent, or take lunch in an organic food café set in a rice paddy. It is a super relaxed co-ordinate and you needn’t have a schedule.
If you're an animal fan, visit the Monkey Jungle, where the cheeky creatures get as much enjoyment out of mimicking and taunting you, as you do out of the awesome power of the animal kingdom. There are elephant parks where you can ride majestic beasts, but is it ethical? You decide.
For those travelling with the less adventurous, even a lazy drive through the jungle is a beautiful way to spend the day. Visit temples, the infamous civet coffee plantations, rice paddy fields, catch a traditional Barong dance show, or find the right vantage point to view one of the incredible volcano vistas.
Travel around September and the skies are peppered with fantastically shaped kites, from small to very, very large, for the annual kite festival. A tradition that grew from bored farmers trying to think of ways to pass the day and protect their crops from hungry birds has grown into an annual explosion in the skies. We passed many a quiet moment in the car counting kites hanging in the sky.
No matter how you plan your itinerary you are bound to encounter a beautiful Balinese tradition of canang, a daily Hindu offering of thanks and gratitude. Handmade banana leaf baskets filled with flowers and incense adorn the footpaths, entrance-ways and front window-sills of every place. It is a sight to behold and it encompasses the very feel of Bali – stunning yet humble, blessed and grateful for it.
WEATHER
Dry: April – Sep
Rainy: Oct - Mar
FLIGHTS: 3,000QR (Expedia)
FOOD: pick up local fare for cheap at a local warung or visit one of the five star restaurants along Legian Beach
TIP: the diving and water sports in Bali is exceptional, but also, check out Lombok and Gili Islands on either side for deserted crystal, clear beaches
